
Trails To Spring
Season 2 Episode 208 | 26m 52sVideo has Closed Captions
Chef Sigrid joins Arne and Stig in Finse. Explore snowy peaks and blooming fjord valleys.
In today’s episode, the adventurous chef Sigrid joins Arne and Stig in Finse. Follow the team as they traverse from the snowy peaks of the Hardanger plateau down to Ulvik on mountain skis, navigating through a winter wonderland. Experience the transition from the majestic mountains to the blooming fjord valley of Hardanger in Spring.
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People of the North is presented by your local public television station.
Distributed nationally by American Public Television

Trails To Spring
Season 2 Episode 208 | 26m 52sVideo has Closed Captions
In today’s episode, the adventurous chef Sigrid joins Arne and Stig in Finse. Follow the team as they traverse from the snowy peaks of the Hardanger plateau down to Ulvik on mountain skis, navigating through a winter wonderland. Experience the transition from the majestic mountains to the blooming fjord valley of Hardanger in Spring.
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
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Adventure awaits in Telemark.
-Earlier in "People of the North" this season, we celebrated our National Day at Finnsnes.
Now we are continuing from the mountain plateau on a wonderful ski trip from snow to fruit blossom in Ulvik.
-Thank you for the trip.
And now we're going to be on our own.
-It's going to be nice.
-Happy travels.
-Sigrid!
-Hi!
-Are you ready for a nice tour on skis?
-She's always ready.
-I think it will be tough for us to keep her pace.
-Welcome to Hallingdal.
-Hi.
-Hi.
-Tor Hellesnes, mountaineer and guide.
You're going to take us over the mountain.
What kind of trip is this?
-Well, we are in the municipality of Ulvik.
Mostly mountain terrain, but we'll find this valley from about 1,300 meters.
First skiing and then hiking out from full winter to almost summer.
-Wow.
So we're going to get you over here.
Stig, Tor is an able guide.
I know him since childhood, so I had to depend on him.
-If he's able to take me over, he's super good.
[ Laughter ] -Okay, Tor, we'll have to saddle up then.
And you show us the way.
-Yep.
♪♪ -I'm Arne Hjeltnes, and I'm going to show you some exotic places and interesting people up north.
-I'm Stig Bareksten, and I will find good beverages and the nice flavors of the North.
-I'm Sigrid, and I'm looking for some lovely local ingredients for a good meal.
-Welcome to "People of the North."
-Our trip from winter at Hardangervidda by the Bergen Oslo Railway to green and lush springtime in Hardanger is really one of the more epic trips you can do on skis in Norway.
The first part has mild climbing, but since we are going all the way down from 4,000 feet, it's a trip most moderate experienced skiers can do in a day.
Anyway, we have an expert local guide and storyteller with us.
A-ha!
It's a place with a great view tour, Tor.
What can you tell us about this area we're now crossing?
-Well, until 1909, when they built the finished the railroad, this area was very remote from anything else.
And people would use this for, amongst other things, but they would also bring animals up here for grassing.
They spent their summers up here.
Young boys bought their sheep and cattle and also horses in the fjord district, and brought them up here.
And then they drifted them further east to the cities, even all the way to Oslo, and sold the animals there.
And then they brought back thick wallets of money and could get married and buy themselves farms.
So it's very comparable to the cowboys of the wild west.
-That sounds like hard work.
-Yes.
And some of them actually developed into, uh, professional outdoor guides.
-And this is the tradition you are then keeping to.
-It is a long tradition, yes.
And we are still here.
-[ Laughs ] Lovely.
Let's get moving.
-Yeah.
♪♪ -Before we reach the highlight of the tour, the downhill skiing to the fjord, it's very welcoming to have a good break and a lovely cup of coffee.
What's this place called, Tor, where we are now?
-This place is called Gunnulven.
-Yeah.
-And that name is of uncertain origin.
We actually don't know exactly what it means.
But the formation behind us here has been a landmark for the people who walked here and a point where they could refer to.
-This one's for you, Stig.
-This looks super delicious.
-Thank you.
-This ugly one goes to Arne.
-[ Laughs ] -This one goes to Arne.
-Arne.
[ Laughter ] -You know, it's the inside that counts.
♪♪ ♪♪ -The valley Numedal is a treat for us who are most happy with a long downhill race.
In May, there is still enough snow up here while the apple trees are blossoming in lovely Ulvik.
Where the snow ends, the ski moves on the back as we meet the green spring in this lush valley.
We have gone from winter to spring on our own feet and skis.
-Imagine, I mean, coming from the winter, the cold, snow, and then just by your own skis, ending up in this lush green village of Ulvik.
-Beautiful.
-This is where we are going to stay, Ulvik Brakanes.
-Brakanes Hotel is one of the classic historic hotels to have catered for the very first tourists who longed to see the wild and beautiful Hardanger.
The feeling of enjoying this breathtaking view from the hotel garden is what has been a treat for many travelers before us, and the managing director is, of course, well dressed in her national costume.
You moved all the way from the US back to where you actually come from.
Why did you want to live here?
-Why not?
Can you see the beautiful surroundings?
We don't have this in the US, so that's definitely one of the reasons.
The activities, the four seasons, the fjords, the mountains.
And this beautiful hotel.
Brakanes Hotel is 163 years old this year.
So a lot of history.
-How did you experience the contrast between living in the US and living in this small village?
-There's definitely a very big contrast.
I would say that the people that are locals, those are the people that make Ulvik what it is today.
-And 160 years of tourism.
What do you feel that the tourist now is -- What are they appreciating when they come here and stay with you?
-Definitely the food.
Everything we make at the hotel is as local as it gets.
-This close to the fjord, we are eager to test the hotel facilities after a long ski trip across the mountain.
The fjord looks tempting, but not so tempting for Stig, who likes to watch when Sigrid and I just must jump in.
♪♪ ♪♪ [ Chuckles ] ♪♪ -It's cold.
♪♪ -That's gonna be lovely with some breakfast after a swim.
Here comes Trine.
-Wow, look at that.
-Here we have prepared a local breakfast for you.
All the products are made here in Ulvik, and you can find them on the farms surrounding the beautiful fjords.
-And that's a local drink, too.
-It is a local drink, made right here in Ulvik with these beautiful orchards we have around.
Enjoy breakfast.
-Thank you.
-Thank you.
-Cheers.
-Cheers.
-Welcome to Ulvik.
I actually had a plan to take you here because this is where my ancestors come from.
Hjeltnes, my name, that's over there.
That's called Hjeltnes.
And this is really the home turf of my ancestors.
And of course, weather is nice, beautiful nature, lovely food.
And I think you and you can find something very nice to serve later.
-Good combination.
-Let's have breakfast.
-Skol.
-Skol.
-Skol.
-For more inspiration, visit our website, peopleofthenorth.net ♪♪ -We are naturally planning a great Ulvik feast.
This means that Sigrid was out hunting for local delicacies to make up the taste of Hardanger.
One of them is just further out in the fjord.
-Solveig, can you please tell me what is this?
Where is this place?
-This is a visitor center for fish farming.
It's a local company called Lingalaks that owns this fish farm.
And this fish farm has been open for visitors since 2009.
On this fish farm, people can come and learn more about fish farming.
-So, can you show me?
-Yes.
Come on.
Follow me.
-Thank you.
So what's special with fish farming in Hardanger?
-Besides the strong current, we have lots of brackish water in the top layer.
And this brackish water comes from the mountains, the snow melting.
-Yeah.
-And also the glacier on the other side here.
It keeps the top layer very fresh and also cold.
And that's very good for the salmon.
They don't like it too warm in the summer.
So this water keeps the temperature down and also keeps away the parasite salmon lice.
-Oh.
-We have the parasites.
It's naturally in the environment.
And our job is to keep the level down in the cages.
So this is very helpful.
-Yeah.
So who's visiting this visiting center?
-Oh, that's all kinds of people.
But when we started in 2009, we first started with the young kids, school kids, and students.
So they can come here and learn about fish farming.
But, you know, we are in Hardanger.
So it was quite easy to start with tourists from all over the world.
Today, we actually have a group from France.
-And what are you feeding them?
What is this?
-When they first started fish farming over 50 years ago, they didn't know what to give the fish.
So they started researching, and they found out that the salmon is just like us.
As long as we get what we need, the nutrients, we can eat whatever -- many different things, yes.
So today, this contains 70% vegetable raw material and 30% marine raw material.
And they like it.
-So it's advanced but natural.
-Yeah, it is.
Do you want to try?
-To eat or...?
-[ Laughs ] -You can eat it.
-I can?
-Yeah.
You get your omega 3 dose today.
-Mm.
It's actually quite good.
[ Laughter ] ♪♪ -Now we're going to taste some salmon, fresh salmon.
-I would love to.
-Yeah.
-So this is raw salmon?
-Yeah.
This is raw salmon sashimi.
-Do you freeze it first?
-No, Norwegian farmed salmon, we don't have to freeze before we eat it.
-Oh, it looks delicious.
-Yeah, it is.
Taste.
-This is a sauce with some, is it chili?
-Yeah, it's chili and garlic and soy sauce.
-Mm!
-Do you like it?
-That was very tender.
Can I have another?
-Mm.
-Do you ever get tired of salmon?
-No.
[ Chuckles ] -It's true.
-This is beetroot marinated salmon.
This is our specialty secret recipe.
-Mm.
Very fresh.
-Yeah.
-Solveig, what's this?
-This is skin, salmon skin.
-Oh.
-Colored, of course.
-Yeah.
-You can make many different things with the skin -- belts.
-It's strong even though it's so thin.
-Yeah, it's very strong.
-I'm gonna make some food outdoor.
Can I take a salmon with me?
-Of course you can.
-Thank you.
-The local salmon is secured, but Ulvik has a lot more to offer.
-Hi.
-Hi.
-I need some bread for a dinner I'm making tonight.
-Yeah.
-Do you have any for me?
-Yes, I do.
Do you want some particular kind of bread, or...?
-I heard that the landbrod is something really good.
-Yeah, that's a very good all round bread.
-Wonderful.
I would like a landbrod.
Thank you.
You know, you're open only 2:00 to 5:00.
-Yes.
-Every Friday.
-Yes.
-Why?
-Well, a lot of people ask that question.
And simple answer is that we have other jobs and we have a farm.
So the bakery is something that we can do one day a week, but that's it.
-So if you come to Ulvik, make sure to come on Fridays between 2:00 and 5:00.
-Yeah.
You should.
[ Laughs ] -Thank you so much.
-You're welcome, and I hope you enjoy it.
-Thank you.
-There are more crafty farmers in the village.
-Hi.
Do you have some cheese for me?
-Yes, we just made some.
-Perfect.
This cheese is as freshly made and as local as it can be.
And almost directly from Nils and Ingrid's cows.
Thank you so much.
This will be very good with the dinner today.
Hi, Ingeborg and Lars.
Can I have some beautiful strawberries so I can make some dessert?
Oh, thank you so much.
-Hi.
-Hi.
-I'm Sigrid.
-Kathinka.
Welcome.
-I need something for my dinner tonight.
Some fresh ingredients.
Do you have anything?
-I think you've come to the right place.
-Perfect.
-Come on.
-Oh, wow.
Now I got very much beautiful ingredients that I'm looking forward to use for my dinner tonight.
So thank you so much.
-Oh, you're more than welcome.
Best of luck!
-For more inspiration, visit our website, peopleofthenorth.net.
-Sigrid enjoys a quick break from her food expedition.
Stig is on his own hunt for local flavors.
At Lekve Farm, Anna Oppedal Tokheim can tempt him with the strongest Ulvik has to offer.
-What do we have here?
-Here we have the apple ice cider, which is cryo-concentrated, so it's freezed apples and perfect as an dessert or to mature cheeses, store cheeses.
And here we have apple brandy made the same way as calvados, although we call it brandy, apple brandy.
-How long has it aged?
-Three years.
-Three years.
-Oak barrels.
-Ah, it's a lot of apples in the flavor.
It's kind of sweet, as well.
-Yeah.
-And you get this spiciness from the wood.
That's super nice.
And here?
-That's the last product.
That's aquavit.
-That's very Norwegian, I would say.
-It's very Norwegian.
-But this is not apple based.
-No, that's a potato spirit which we distill together with cherries, sweet cherries.
And then we add the spices when we store it.
At least seven months in oak barrels, as well.
-Very clear.
Caraway, I would say.
-Cheers.
-Sigi and I meet Stig to explore the cider route, which is a must for every visitor to Ulvik.
This is the first stop on the cider route.
-Yes, that's a very interesting concept.
What is it, Anna?
-Well, it's three farms working together to give our guests a unique experience, both tasting the cider and the juice, of course, but also our fruit and meat products.
And you can start here within the distillery and having some ciders.
Then you can walk to the next farm, Syse, which also serves food, and then you can end up at Asbjørn's place with a lot of juices and also alcohol free ciders.
-Perfect.
-We are looking forward to this.
-Oh, very much.
-This is my kind of route.
Or your kind of route.
-Pub to pub.
-Pub to pub.
-Pub to pub.
-Among these wonderful farms.
-Cheers.
-Cheers.
[ Glasses clink ] -All this talk and sampling of lovely apple beverages inspires Stig to come up with his special local version of a martini.
Ulvik is a heaven for anyone into botanics.
-Okay, then we are ready to make the martini.
And today, I made my own vermouth with apple cider, some local wormwood.
Beside that, there is some angelica.
There is also some thyme and elderflowers.
And sweet chervil actually planted here in Ulvik by Anna's great great great great something... grandfather.
♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ -At Holmen, the historic Isdal mansion is a common haven for inspiring food and drinks.
My relative Orjan Hjeltnes is the chairman.
I am so glad, Stig, that I'm able to now have a taste of my great great great great grandfather's seeds he planted here with the sweet chervil.
And I also got my relative Orjan, and we are now tasting our common great great great great great grandfather.
-Yeah.
-Cheers.
-Cheers.
-Ooh.
-Wow.
-Mm-hmm.
-Ooh.
-That's a great vermouth.
I think it could be maybe an export product from Ulvik.
-A great export.
-A great.
[ Laughter ] -So, Sigi, what do we have here?
-I made a starter, a very local starter.
It's the bread from Kádn & Alde, the bakery just up here.
It's some smoked salmon from Lingalaks.
It's a cream cheese from my friend.
And some apple jam from Syse Farm.
and some greens from Undeland.
-Mm.
-Mm.
-Mm.
-Mm.
-Fantastic combination of Ulvik flavors.
The cream cheese with the smoked salmon.
Wow.
And the herbs and the bread that you only get on Fridays.
Be in Ulvik on a Friday.
For more inspiration visit our website, peopleofthenorth.net.
Sigrid has been very creative in her way of showing what can be made from what she has discovered.
♪♪ ♪♪ -Today you've been quite creative I would say.
-I could do this with a very good help from my assistant today.
-Yes.
-Who helped me find the apple wood and soaked it in water.
And then we could put the fresh salmon from Lingalaks on top of it and put it on the grill.
And I hope that goes well with the potatoes from the area.
Carrots and -- -Potatoes from Hjeltnes.
-Yeah yeah, yeah.
And the greens from Undeland Gard.
And apple plums and vinaigrette.
It's a combination from very many farmers and local producers in Ulvik.
-This is also 100% Ulvik meal.
-But we don't have anything in our glasses.
-Orjan, do you have anything to put in the glass to go with this Ulvik meal?
What is this, Orjan?
-This, Arne, is a homemade beer made of an open fire.
So it's an old tradition.
Yeah, maybe 200 or 300 years.
It's not like the Vikings make it.
This is a little bit more perfect.
[ Laughter ] -Cheers, everyone.
I know Orjan as a fantastic traditional brewer.
-Expectations are high.
-Very keen on your take on this, Stig, as our drink expert.
-Yeah, but I did some trials earlier this evening, so I know it's good.
[ Laughter ] -Mm.
-Orjan, this is a beautiful place.
What is it?
What was it?
-Today, it's a place we try to develop as a tourist attraction.
We want to show tourists nature based and culture based activities and fruit yards.
And now the local community in Ulvik own the place.
So we are seven local persons, friends.
-You are one of them?
-Yeah, I'm one of them.
So now we want to make a new attraction maybe.
But the most important for us is to show what's here, what's been there before.
-People can come and see the history.
-Yes, and they can also stay here, and they can have some courses and learn something maybe in gardening or something like that.
-Lovely, Sigrid.
Quite a meal from really locally sourced produce.
-It's such a privilege to go around.
Just you can walk between them, all these local producers, and just pick ingredients in world class, and then got to combine them out here in the sun, and then to serve it to three happy guys.
-And everything goes well with your brew, Orjan.
-Of course, of course.
-Ulvik is a Paradise, and a cheers to our ancestors, Orjan, who built this village.
[ Laughter ] -Thank you.
-Whatever, whatever.
-Cheers.
-Together with a lot of others.
-Yes.
Anyway, cheers.
-You can come to Ulvik on skis and any other means of transportation.
Either way, when you get here, you'll find a beautiful Paradise at the very end of the Hardanger fjord.
♪♪ ♪♪ -Tellus Works.
-For more inspiration, visit our website, peopleofthenorth.net -Funding for this series has been provided in part by the following.
-Seafood from Norway.
-Telemark, a world of culture and history where nature knows no bounds, with the flavors of local delicacies.
Adventure awaits in Telemark.
Support for PBS provided by:
People of the North is presented by your local public television station.
Distributed nationally by American Public Television